Match the noise to the likely cause
Squealing or screeching when braking. Often the brake-pad wear indicators telling you the pads are low. Can also be glazed pads or dust.
Grinding when braking. Pads worn down to the metal backing, damaging the discs. Have it checked immediately.
Squealing from the engine, especially when starting or turning the steering. A slipping or worn drive belt, or a failing tensioner or pulley.
Clunking or knocking over bumps. Worn suspension parts — anti-roll bar links, bushes, ball joints or shock absorber mounts.
Clicking when turning at low speed. Often a worn CV joint on front-wheel-drive cars, particularly if its rubber boot is torn.
Humming or droning that rises with speed. Frequently a worn wheel bearing — it may change when you turn one way or the other. Tyres with uneven wear can also hum.
Knocking or tapping from the engine. Can be low oil, valve-train noise or, in more serious cases, internal engine wear. Check the oil level and have it inspected promptly.
Whining when steering. On hydraulic systems, often low power steering fluid or a worn pump.
Rattling from underneath. A loose heat shield or exhaust mounting is common, but worth checking.
Helpful details to note before you book
- When does it happen — starting, idling, accelerating, braking, turning, over bumps?
- Does it change with speed or engine revs?
- Where does it seem to come from — front, rear, left, right, engine bay, underneath?
- When did it start, and is it getting louder?
When to get a professional inspection
Most noises are best checked early, when the fix is usually smaller. We road-test the vehicle with you where possible, inspect the relevant systems with the vehicle raised, and explain the cause and options with an estimate before any work begins.
